Urtė Katiliūtė has described herself as “naked online,” which tracks for a designer who has little interest in mystique for mystique’s sake. Under the label Urte Kat, the Lithuanian designer makes clothes that can be glamorous, severe, or completely unserious—like a boot that’s also a ballet flat, a backless tank with a tie, or a pleated skirt with “lucky girl” written in cursive across the waistband. Katiliūtė’s tongue-in-cheek humor never undercuts her designs; it’s part of what makes them feel alive, fulfilling the daydreams of her teenage self. Below, she talks finding inspo in therapy, fascia, and what makes a good design.
“I’ve always believed I’m lucky, even when there was no evidence to support it.”
When did you know fashion was the thing for you?
I still don’t.
What did you feel was missing from fashion when you started Urte Kat?
There aren’t enough people who don’t come from money who are building successful fashion businesses. I want kids to know it’s possible: We’re an Eastern European brand. We have no connections, no family investors, and come from single and working-parent households.
How does your upbringing show up in the way you design?
It shows up in the hatred of pretentiousness.
Who is your fashion Mount Rushmore?
Miguel Adrover, Martin Margiela, Miuccia Prada, Alexander Mcqueen.
What’s the most unlikely place you’ve found inspiration?
Therapy.
Who’s the first person you call when you get good news?
My boyfriend.
How does a collection usually begin for you?
It never really begins or ends for me—it’s like always going on.
If Urte Kat were a girl at a party, where would you find her?
All over the room, depending on the time.
What niche topic could you talk about for hours?
Fascia.
Are you a regular at any cafes or bars?
I’m always home.
What’s your go-to comfort movie or T.V. show?
Sex and the City, Girls, Desperate Housewives, Modern Family, Peep Show, It’s Always Sunny in Philadelphia, Fleabag—I’m 100 percent forgetting something.
What does “lucky girl syndrome” mean to you—and why did the phrase become the starting point for your recent collection?
I’ve always believed I’m lucky, even when there was no evidence to support it. I want girls to wear it on their chest as a reminder, or until they also believe it.
You took a break from designing last year. What became clearer about your work once you stepped away from it?
It taught me to separate myself: A bad design is just that; it says nothing of me. But a good design makes me a genius!
Was there a piece that made you think, Okay, I’ve found my voice?
Not a piece, but designing Spring/Summer 2025 and Spring/Summer 2027 really made me content.
What’s next—and what are you hoping to do that you haven’t done yet?
I want to do a show!!!