Katya Zelentsova knows how to make a dress she’d actually want to wear. One favorite design, the Voile—a lace, sequin, and organza number finished with fluttering ombré handkerchiefs—could make for a party dress or pass for a fairy costume. You can decide which when you’re out the door. Since she graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2020, Zelentsova has built a knitwear label that brings together her love for Russian craft techniques (she grew up in Volgograd), a weakness for shimmer, and the thrill of being overdressed. Below, she talks people-watching, the one piece of clothing she bought twice, and the color that best describes her.
“A mini dress can be transcendent.”
What was the first piece of knitwear you designed?
The first real wearable piece, i.e. not a square with some ties, was a floral crochet dress I made as a summer project after finishing my degree. I had a lot of yarn left over from the year and knew how to crochet these flowers—so 200 of them later, my first real design was born.
What inspired your Voile dress?
The silhouette came from a handkerchief-skirt style from a couple of seasons ago. I wanted to bring it back for summer, and when I saw this special deadstock silver-print chiffon—floaty and shimmery—it all came into place.
Where do you people-watch in London?
Everywhere in London is great, but the floor-to-ceiling windows at Sprüth Magers make it extra easy to peer out at people.
What are your favorite objects in your studio?
The mighty duo of my giant pencil-shaped, rainbow-colored eraser from the Museum of the Home gift shop and my trompe l’oeil mechanical pencil; my trusty Hague linker; and my antique folding table that looks like a New Order cover.
What do you do when you’re stuck on an idea?
I go to the C.S.M. library every few months for a refresher and it’s usually quite a broad selection of research. Anything goes: medieval textiles, street photography, font books, film screenshots. I’d like to say the stack is all neat and sorted through, but it’s a bit chaotic. I guess there’s beauty in happenstance, something to jolt me out of the stupor.
What’s the last thing you bought that you love?
Last month, I bought a black-and-green version of the same cotton-and-linen cardigan I bought three years ago in pink and blue. It’s the best-fitting piece of knitting I own. I daydream about the things I’m going to pair it with.
If you could raid anyone’s wardrobe, whose would it be?
The girls from the opening montage of The Devil Wears Prada [2006]. I see a lot of great pencil skirts.
What’s a trend you wish would come back?
As the days get shorter, I’d love to see more muffs. They’re just the right amount of whimsical and practical. Bring back muffs!
What color best describes your personality?
Silver. Shiny when it needs to be.
What’s your current obsession?
I went to see the remastered The Devils [1971] by Ken Russell with my boyfriend last week. Best rewatch of the year. Hard to choose one thing to love considering the incredible performances, but maybe Derek Jarman’s set. It’s so perfectly modern. You have to see it to believe it.
What are you dreaming up for the next collection?
Knitted broderie anglaise, embellished paisley, and rhetoric pointelle walk into a bar. Bright colors and bright ideas. A mini dress can be transcendent—just as you want it.