Anna Wintour, count your clothes, Malene Specht has her eye on your mint feather cape. She’d like a closer look at the rest of the former Vogue editor’s closet too. The German-born designer has a weakness for a good pattern and a slightly unreasonable proportion: marching-band jackets with the frogging printed on, A-line dresses dotted with oversized buttons, and, of course, houndstooth wherever she can put it. One day her dream car will come upholstered in the stuff, but for now, the ride only exists in a photograph in her studio—“it inspires me to think big,” she says.
Her taste for the exaggerated has already found a few fans, too. For her Famesick press tour earlier this year, Lena Dunham went all buttoned up in a custom pink checked coatdress, its prim collar offset by a comically oversized belt buckle, with white tights and pink pointed heels to match. Yung Lean and Frost Children’s Angel Prost have also been spotted in her designs. Next on her wish list? Tilda Swinton and British pop duo the Femcels. Below, Specht talks dressing up, what she calls “dark horny-intellectual electronic music,” and knowing when to leave your leggings at home.
What was the first piece you designed that felt like Malene Specht?
My screen-printed tulle top and mint hat.
What are your favorite colors?
Royal purple, gold, and mint, psychedelic colors that can be read in many ways.
What are three things that inspired you recently?
Anna Wintour in this swimming pool print dress, a “Thank you!” deli bag with blue font, and my last purchase: a leopard print uniform jacket made up of small little leopard heads… It’s irritating.
What’s something outside of fashion that’s influencing you right now?
Emma Roberts collecting her doll clothes at the dry cleaner. I’ve also been ferrying over the East River alone. Music in headphones, wide open water, and Dj X—it makes me think.
Who wears Malene Specht?
People who like to dress up, but don’t take themselves too seriously.
Who do you hope to see wearing your designs next?
Lily McMenamy, New York, the Femcels, Tilda Swinton, my friends, and people I haven’t met yet.
What’s your everyday studio look?
Heavy shoes, black pants, and a buttoned up shirt. It makes me look dressed up, gives me control.
What do you listen to while working?
Repetitive, hypnotic, minimal, and slightly dark horny-intellectual electronic music.
What were you obsessed with as a kid? And are you still obsessed now?
Ballet. I danced for 16 years. City lights and perfume ads (the one where Eddie Campbell is running through Tokyo at night or the [Kenzo World commercial 2016] with Margaret Qualley in the green dress at the Metropolitan Opera). I’m still obsessed.
If you could raid anyone’s wardrobe, whose would it be?
Anna Wintour, because of her collection and variety of patterns! She wore this mint feather cape to the Met that I really would like to try on.
What’s currently your favorite material?
Gabardine and scuba for their structure and stiffness; they’re straightforward to work with. Tulle, too, because of its potential to be used in many different ways.
What’s one fashion hill you’d die on?
Wearing leggings outside the gym is pretty unnecessary—unless they are neon yellow.
What are three of your favorite things in your studio?
My houndstooth smart car, sadly I only have it in 2-D. It inspires me to think big. Also, my screens, and my copy of the Fran Leibowitz Reader [1994]; it’s funny but also pretty dry.
